Tracking Poachers Illegally Trapping China's Protected Singing Birds.
The activist's eyes scan across miles of tall grassland, searching for signs of life in the early morning gloom.
He speaks in a muted voice as they attempt to locate a concealed position in the grasslands. In the distance, the sprawling city of Beijing has yet to wake. During the vigil, we hear only the quiet of the morning.
Suddenly, as the sky starts to lighten before dawn, we hear footsteps. The poachers are here.
Trapped
In the skies above us, billions of birds, many so small that they can fit in the cup of a hand, are traveling to the south for winter.
They have benefited from the extended daylight in Siberia, or Mongolia, consuming bugs and berries. As the year comes to a close and chilling gusts bring the early cold of winter, they head to more temperate climates to find food and shelter.
There are more than 1,500 bird species, accounting for 13% of the planet's species – more than 800 of those are birds that migrate. Several of the major migration routes they follow intersect in China.
This particular field being monitored, on the fringes of the Chinese capital, is an haven for small birds – farther in and the urban landscape offer little opportunity to rest among clusters of concrete.
It is equally attractive for the poachers and their "barely visible nets", so thin you can barely see them.
The one we nearly walked into was extending over a large section of the field and supported with wooden sticks. At its center, a small finch was fighting hard to free his legs, but the more it moved, the more its feet got ensnared.
This was a meadow pipit, a species under protection in China, and an important "bio-indicator" – meaning if its numbers are thriving, so is its ecosystem.
Hunting the Hunters
This activist, does this work for free using his personal funds. He has given up on many nights of sleep to set songbirds free, and he has spent the last 10 years persuading the police in Beijing to take this crime seriously.
"In the early days, there was little interest," he says.
So he enlisted helpers who did care and launched a group known as the Beijing Migratory Bird Squad. He organized community gatherings and invited the heads of the relevant authorities. These consistent and determined acts of advocacy have shown results. The police discovered that apprehending illegal hunters also helped in identifying other kinds of illegal operations.
"It became clear our goals were partially aligned," Silva says, noting that the response is not uniform.
This fascination with birds started in childhood. He grew up in the 1990s in a distinct era for the city.
He remembers exploring the fields on the city's edges where he found birds, frogs and snakes. "But starting from the 2000s, everything changed."
Industrialization brought a huge influx of rural workers to cities. This expansion meant grasslands were viewed as empty places to build, not protected zones to conserve.
The change stunned Silva. The grasslands started disappearing, as did the habitats they supported.
"I decided back then to work in conservation and I chose this direction," he says.
It has not been an simple journey. A major Beijing's biggest bird dealers found out he was being investigated by Silva and fought back.
"He gathered several of his accomplices who surrounded me and beat me up," Silva recalls. He says he went to the police but those responsible were not brought to justice.
He has also lost his army of volunteers over the years. This work demands stealth and sleepless nights. Silva says not many are willing to take on the challenging and occasionally risky job.
"This is my full-time commitment," he says. "I made it a project because if you want to tackle this challenge, you must commit completely. You can't do it part-time."
He says donations covers some of the costs – more than 100,000 yuan a year – but funding has declined because of the slowing economy.
So he has found new ways to hunt the hunters.
He analyzes satellite imagery to find the trails worn away by the poachers. He maps those against the birds' flight paths and looks for areas where they may stop for the night. The aerial views can even show lines of net traps which can capture hundreds of small birds at night.
"Certain prized species command a premium," Silva says. "In urban centers like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to own songbirds are now often affluent."
Although there are environmental regulations in place, Silva argues the fines to punish the crime do not outweigh the potential profits of catching and selling songbirds.
Owning a pet bird was – and for some generations in China, still is – a mark of prestige. This dates back to the Qing dynasty. Wealthy individuals would build ornate bamboo cages for their birds.
It's a tradition that continues mainly among retired men in their 60s or 70s. Silva says older Chinese people don't realise they are committing a wildlife crime, or grasp that numerous birds had to die in a trap for them to purchase a caged bird.
"These individuals often lacked enough to eat in their youth. Now with a little money, they have adopted the practice of caging birds," he says. "China developed so fast, there was no time to raise awareness about the environment. Once adults' values are formed, they're extremely difficult to change."
Apprehended
On a long low wall in Beijing, a trader has several tiny enclosures with tiny twittering birds.
Another man is positioned near a local market holding a bird cage shrouded in a dark cloth. He informs passers-by discreetly that his songbird is rare, worth nearly 1900 yuan.
This is a glimpse of an old Beijing where small unofficial traders have created their own market.
The area alongside the water extends over several miles and on a sunny weekday morning, there were shoppers browsing everything from old trinkets to false teeth.
Information suggested that wild songbirds could be purchased in a small park. It was easy to find.
Loud music played from a speaker under the low trees where a troop of elderly ladies were choreographing a traditional dance. Nearby several men, all over 50, had congregated with bird cages – some had two or three in their hands. Most were concealed by black fabric.
But on this occasion there would be no transactions because the police had arrived. They were questioning the bird owners and taking names. Defiant, one man said he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his